Typical charge to install fuse
billscha1
24 days ago
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mike_home
24 days agoRelated Discussions
fuse in the grounding circuit of my huskee 22 hp garden tractor
Comments (22)The picture gets fuzzier and fuzzier without any pictures to accompany the meandering tale. Let me direct you to a recent thread (click link at bottom of this post) in which the form and function of the Briggs V Twin ignition kill circuits is discussed at great length. This thread was opened and finished before you signed up as a member. You will not read it all. I just know that. Now to try and address the ***" 3 things I want to know."*** 1...***"first is the battery charging i.e. amp meter"*** RESPONSE... I don't know because you don't give any description of what that ammeter is doing. But from the rest of your posts I would have to suspect it might probably not be charging. If the charging system is working, and the ammeter is even wired up correctly............the indicator needle should move to the PLUS side of the gauge face for at least a few minutes AFTER you start the engine (engine must be near full governed RPM for charging). 2...***" second is the oil sensing light working indicating low oil"*** RESPONSE... NO, it is not an indicator of low oil. It is an indicator of LOW OIL PRESSURE. The only reasonable and reliable indicator of low oil is the manual oil level gauge, also known as the OIL DIPSTICK. (do not confuse it with other types of "dipsticks"). The only way to guard against engine failure (due to low oil level) is to check the oil level by following the instructions in the owner's manual. The oil level should be checked each and every time BEFORE THE ENGINE IS USED. This means prior to using it and between use cycles if you must stop and refill the fuel tank. In lieu of following the instructions in the OM to determine if the oil level is sufficient, there are 2 alternate methods (signs) for "guessing" that the oil level might be low. A. You notice a piston connecting rod protruding from a new hole in the engine block. B. Engine refuses to rotate even when a 6' breaker bar with socket wrench is used on the flywheel nut. 3...***" Lastly shutting down in an emergency grounding the coils to each other."*** RESPONSE... I don't understand your use of the term "emergency". Try to read through the thread found by clicking the link I provided and it might "click" for you about how the 2 coils are separated from each other, and how they are connected to a COMMON GROUND for routinely shutting down the engine. Now get to work on posting pictures on here. :^) Here is a link that might be useful: Curiouser and curiouser...See MoreKnob and Tube � are these ganged fuses or fused neutrals?
Comments (4)The last guy couldn't figure it out either, that's why there's a subpanel - he left the old service in place because he was confused to heck. Find the smallest-value fuses you can. Replace all of them with that. 12.5A isn't a normal common value anymore, so I'm going to bet that one is the oldest. You should probably try to find more 12.5's and use them in all of the spaces. The problem you're going to find with your incremental replacement is that all of those circuits are going to tie into each other in ways that make no sense to you. A 'hot' wire is going to go up in the wall in one room but the neutral to the same circuit is going to be going the opposite direction in a totally different room. You're going to run a new circuit to one room and when you're pretty sure you're done with all of the k&t wire that goes to the old circuit you're very sure you followed, you're going to unhook that wire and three things you thought were completely unrelated are going to stop working. Been there. Done that. I enjoy the challenge, because this is a bit of a hobby to me - and the history of it is as interesting to me as the work, but if you're a "normal" person with a real life... I feel for you....See MoreHow do i handle this? Is this typical? Please help
Comments (35)@trentsteff thanks for the reply, I am on the other side of the US. Checked out your website, you do beautiful work! I love seeing the before and afters :) @colorfast no, I haven't paid him anything yet. I wanted to get a quote from my cabinet guy and that's where we left it at this point. I've also decided to pay a designer for my layout. I found one I absolutely love on Houzz. They're a bit pricey but I honestly feel it's worth it. I used an out of state designer for a spare bath remodel and with my ideas plus hers, I love what we came up with. I don't really have the money to throw around for a designer, but I have an open floor plan and the kitchen is extremely visible. I really want to get the look and layout right, so that's the road I'm taking. I'm going to ask my cabinet guy for GC referrals but he's 2 hours away so Idk if he'll know of anyone. Can't hurt to ask :) Also considering being my own GC. The reason is bc I don't know if anyone would take the job? When I spoke to the one GC, I told him my dad and I were going to lay the floor (my dad has laid many floors, click, tongue &groove, etc). GC didn't like that as labor was a chunk of change that he'd be missing out on. My husband felt the cabinet guy should be the one to install the cabinets as he made them, and knows how he likes his cabinets installed. When the GC heard this, he said either HE installs the cabinets or he's not taking the job. He said 'I am a GC. That's what I do. I don't come out and do piecemeal work here and there! If I don't install the cabinets, I'm not taking the job.' So I don't know? Does this mean no GC would do it? The things I need are: installing all appliances, installing new baseboards (about 1200 sq ft), fixing my walls (either skim coat or new drywall), casing doors & crown molding, gas venting for range to outside (I currently have electric), plumbing and electric in new areas, tiling backsplash. There's probably more but that's all I can think of right now :)...See MoreSOS! Plumbing Budget - typical $$ allotment for fixtures and install?
Comments (13)Not to be too critical, but there is a shared responsibility here, and it sounds a bit like you assumed he understood your thinking completely. Instead of deciding he has dropped the ball, it's time to have a discussion with him about his assumptions and your assumptions, and find out if there is a huge difference between what he was planning to install and what you think should be installed. The problem with plumbing fixtures is that the sky is the limit, but there is not always an exact correlation between what you spend and what you get. I recognize this is new to you, but you need to do some additional self-education about quality and price. When I was looking for simple, chrome towel hooks for my bathroom, I found some nice ones for $380, but I settled on ones that were the same finish and the same look for under $10 each. I have a friend with a lot of money who spent $10,000 on one track lighting fixture because he doesn't know much about what goes into fixtures and assumes that something that costs a lot is always far superior. It's a nice lighting fixture, but I can show you one for $300 that is just as good quality-wise, and you would have a hard time telling me which one was the expensive one. All this is to say that maybe your contractor is able to do a good job of keeping costs under control and delivering adequate quality. But you won't know unless you have a frank discussion with him....See Morebillscha1
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