Lex: while photos are extremely helpful to us in visualizing the situation, the one you provided is not doing your garden justice - it's a bit too small and the panorama effect distorts the perspective. Is it possible for you repost with individual photos of the garden areas rather than a panoramic composite? And a quick plan sketch with some measurements would be equally helpful. Beyond this, suggestions will be unfortunately vague :-) Depth of available planting areas will determine to a large extent what can be used successfully for screening as well as layering.......and if this is your intent, it is best to err on the side of generosity. And some quick thoughts on plant selection. It's impossible to see from the photo provided where formalized, sheared hedging may be appropriate. Arborvitaes are ideal for taller formal hedges and pruning or shearing is optional, as many (like the Emerald Green) are by habit narrow and columnar. For shorter hedges, box or Japanese holly are popular and for good reason, but germander, rosemary, even lavender could work in the right situation. Formalized hedges require ongoing routine maintenance to keep them looking sharp, so keep that in mind when making your plant choices - don't select a shrub or tree that naturally wants to grow to 20+ feet when all you are looking for is an 8' hedge.......too much work involved :-) Otherwise, an informal screening as a backdrop for lower plantings is relatively easy to achieve, provided the depth of the planting bed is suitable. A mix of evergreen shrubs/small trees and deciduous plants will accomplish this, with the weight placed on the evergreens. Your second group of listed plants could comprise the bulk of this, but I might consider replacing the viburnum choices with the evergreen V. tinus and adding Choisya ternata, camellia or smaller selections of Hinoki cypress. I am personally very fond of fastigiate hornbeams for deciduous screening purposes and use them often in designs. Their very upright and dense branching structure makes them pretty effective for this purpose even out of leaf. Carpinus betulus 'Frans Fontaine' is my cultivar of choice. And some of your listed plants are just not well advised for your area or for the purpose you have in mind. Butterfly bush is a listed Oregon invasive plant, redbuds tend to be rather short-lived in the NW, sumac suckers aggressively and over a wide distance and privet has a host of issues that make it a less than wonderful choice. Hope this will be a start to get you thinking. And come back to us with more photos if you can.

If you have any plans to put in a more permanent walkway, I'd stick with a few annuals and perennials in the planting area until you decide what you are going to do. Any shrubs or more permanent plantings will get destroyed if you ever do any construction in that area. Usually the hardscape would be done first, plantings later. Spend some time lurking and reading old threads on the Perennials and Shrubs forums, and your regional forum. Also visit New to Gardening to learn some basics about soil, and gardening techniques that will ensure a reasonable level of success with your plantings. Go to the library and take out some books on gardening and design, and visit nurseries in your area to see what plants are available that do well in your climate. Read the tags on the plants, and takes notes. You can look the plants up later on the web to learn more about their characteristics and cultural requirements. Once you have your garden area prepared, experiment and have fun. Annuals will give you a lot of color all summer. Perennials will increase in size and return every year. Ordinarily, I would recommend some shrubs, but if you're going to make changes later to the walk, I'd hold off. Also, you'll need to know how much sun that area gets and what kind of soil you have. It will probably need a lot of amendments due to compaction from construction around the house and the habit builders have of taking away your topsoil and replacing it with crappy subsoil. The area under the deep overhang of the roof will not get any rain on it, so keep that in mind when planning for plants. Until you learn a bit about gardening and the plants you would like to grow, and gain some hands-on experience, your results may be disappointing. As you learn more, your taste may change, so start out slowly and don't try to do everything at once.

Yea! A new garden - always lots of fun. Are you using an existing plot? Soil preparation will be key. Take the time to do a soil test through the state extension office. Hopefully the weeds & grass will not be too much of a problem for you. The first year is always the hardest but as you eliminate weeds and grass, each year seems to get easier. Okay on to your actual questions ;) Tomatoes: I've grown mostly Roma tomatoes because I like them for both fresh eating but mostly for making sauces and salsas. But this year I thought I'd seek out a typical round variety. I wanted it to be a good producer with fruit that is not prone to crack or disease. I've settled on Better Boy - not an heirloom but predictable and a good producer with decent tasting flavor. It is recommended by the ISU Extension. For a list, google Iowa State Extension Tomato Recommendations. You'll find a link labeled "tomatoes" that will pull up a pdf file. There are a few other recommended varieties that you may want to look up. Last year was a horrible tomato year - very wet and cool. I'm hoping this year is much better! As for peppers: California Wonder have done very well for me. As have all the hot & moderate heat peppers that I've grown (jalapenos, serranos, peter peppers, anaheims). I'm adding a large orange bell pepper into the mix this year :) Onions: I usually buy the sets at Walmart. If you get plants through a supplier, they are supposed to produce bigger bulbs. Just make sure your getting the right onion - they are day light sensitive.

I'm sure that in the OP's climate legumes will be best direct sown. I was just pointing that some of us start them inside, indeed have to start them inside. Favas and peas clearly can take low temps, indeed I often sow in November to over winter. I also start some favas in January to plant out in February. It just gives them a few weeks start. Runner beans will not take any frost at all. The problem in cool maritime climates is that the soil is not warm enough for runner or French beans to even think about germinating before about late May. By that time indoor started beans are already setting off up their poles. Later sowings go into the ground directly. When I say 'inside' I mean simply in a glass porch or on a window sill. I have no lights. Indoor starting also helps avoid slugs and mice. The latter in particular can destroy a whole sowing of newly sprouted favas in a night. They don't eat the beans until they germinate. Must taste better, I suppose. Then they eat the bean and toss aside the sprout. It's heartbreaking to see. Anyhow - back to the OP - I'm sure for a beginner direct sowing as much as possible is best.