New Electrolux Dryer with Clamshell filter - NOT IMPRESSED
cj47
last year
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Electrolux 50 Washer & Dryer: Does Yours Do This?
Comments (4)Alex, thanks so much for the advice! The small-load/more suds thing does make sense because the first 2 loads I did were a pair of queen sheets and I did not get the sudsing. But all the other loads were smaller and even though I cut down the amount of detergent it was apparantly still too much. We have fairly soft public water here (3 grains/gal). Looks like I'm going to have to get the contractor guy to reinforce the flooring from underneath. When I bought the house I asked the home inspector that very question (because the previous owners added the laundry area and so it's on framing rather than a slab) and he assured me that the framing was "perfectly adequate" (prev owners had a one-piece Kenmore washer-dryer in that space). I did tell him that I was planning to replace the existing unit with a stacked pair too. Now I'm wondering whether the failure of the dispenser cups to properly drain, might also be a function of the spin cycle being too wobbly.... Thanks for the link to the Samsung issue. I have a feeling mine might be also related to the flooring/swing possibility now, because it isn't only small items that get tossed to the front: sheets and heavy items like jeans do too. It's pretty amazing to watch: I can load the drum perfectly evenly front to back, turn on the dryer, and in less than a half dozen revolutions the whole load is tumbling right up against the door and the rear half of the drum is entirely empty of clothing! And remains so throughout the entire cycle. Sheets are a real pain because everything quickly balls up into one big cocoon. I did two queen sheets last night and had to stop and separate them three times during the cycle because one sheet was entirely encased in a cocoon formed by the other sheet's layers. The drum is level when it is stationary but now I'm wondering if (due to floor flexing) it may be tilting toward the front as soon as the rotation starts. I have not yet run the washer and dryer at the same time, by the way. This is my first experience with a stacked configuration and I'm definitely NOT a fan. The washer is too low and the dryer flirting with being too high. Before this, I've always had them side by side, on pedestals and on a slab foundation. But there is nowhere else in this house to put the W&D other than in this bumped-out recessed area....See MoreElectrolux 60 vs 70 washer/dryer
Comments (10)I got a Kenmore Elite He3 in June 2003 (for almost the exact same price I paid for the Electrolux 70 today) . . I'm not sure you guys can handle this but for years I just used a smaller quantity of Tide powder. Then I switched to Tide HE liquid a few years ago, thinking that was a good thing but then I read that you guys don't like liquid either. I saw your post with Tips for the Electrolux 70 washer Thanks! BTW, that Kenmore washer ended my relationship with Sears. I bought the washer and less than a year later my dryer died so we went in and bought a dryer on a Sat that was supposed to be delivered the next Thu. The next (Sun) the washer threw an F9 code (blocked pump/ drain). My husband checked the drain line and it was clear. I called the repair dept Mon morning and told them the problem and they said they couldn't come out for 2 (maybe 3?) weeks! So I went to the Sears store to talk to the salesmen that I bought the dryer from and asked if he could do anything. He said he couldn't so I told him to cancel the dryer purchase. I sat there all day and at 4:30 the repairman called and said he was running late and couldn't make it that day and rescheduled not for the next day but something like a week later! Same thing happened that time! My husband took off work the third time. When I came home from work I asked if they fixed it. Nope! They called and tried the same thing! They wanted to reschedule in 2 weeks and he told them I would kill somebody if they didn't get someone over there the next day. He finally did show. I told him at the door that it was an F9 code. Before he even looked at the machine, he said "something is stuck in the drain." I said "No, my husband checked that and it's clear". He insisted that that it was. A few minutes later he presented me with a wet anklet and told me about the drain filter trap that you can access from the bottom. He said it happens all the time (although that was the only time it happened to us). The he said that little visit would have been over $100 if it hadn't been under warranty. We paid $1100 for a washer and went without it for something like 6 weeks because no one could tell us to check that trap when we called and told them the code that apparently always means there's something in that trap?!?!? OMG!!! And it was under warranty so it wasn't like they were trying to make money on the service call. I still can't believe the incompetence 12 years later! And I have refused to buy any appliances, and just about anything else, from Sears to this day....See MoreNew Front Load Washer & Dryer...need this groups thoughts
Comments (41)I have 15-year-old front loader washer and dryer. We got the pedestals, and I have to say they are nice--I like the drawers underneath where my kids put their dirty socks and other unmentionables after sports practice. I also appreciate not bending over so far to get inside. Mine are one of the original frontloaders and I've had 2 repairs on them that I can remember. They perform very well but I'm careful to use HE laundry detergent and only half the amount, at most. I also don't vary the cycles much so I'm not challenging the electrical components (or so that's my theory). Because of their age, I know we're nearing the end of their lives but I'm willing to do a few more repairs unless they completely break down. I also blow them a kiss and thank them each time they complete a cycle. I swear this is the key. I keep my washer door cracked open a bit when not in use to avoid the smell. It makes sense if you think about it--to keep a FL leak-free during a cycle vs. a TL, the seal must be more tight when closed. A TL still has some air circulation when the lid is down....See MoreElectrolux washer/dryer light up, beep on their own!
Comments (16)First, unlearn fables that promote myths. Electronics are not delicate. 120 volt electronics even before PC existed met standards that require 600 volt transients without damage. Today's electronics are even more robust. Let's put numbers to it. A datasheet for the semiconductor interface chip is: http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX1487E-MAX491E.pdf How many volts will it withstand without damage? 15,000. Where is a 'delicate' number? Second, appliances fail for various reasons. A most common is manufacturing defects. We all learned this from a world wide and famous counterfeit electrolyte problem. Capacitors would fail many years later - due to that manufacturing defect. Then many went looking for myths (ie surges) to explain those failures. How many of your failures were due to manufacturing defects? Third, voltage variations are hard on motorized appliances - not on electronics. In fact, we sometimes design electronics with parts that intentionally create a low voltage on power up - to increase life expectancy. Ideal voltage for electronics is any voltage demonstrated by incandescent bulbs - from 50% intensity to double intensity. How often does your electricity vary that much? That is what a power supply does. It converts massive AC voltage variations into DC voltages that do not change by even 0.2 volts. Four, where is this unsteady power? If light bulbs do not vary intensity, then power is perfect - ideal - best - and not harmful. Worse, "unsteady" is a subjective term. It does not define an anomaly and does not have a number. So it is a term that promotes fables, scams, and junk science reasoning. Anomalies include harmonics, sags, bad power factor, RFI, frequency variations, brownout, floating neutral, spikes, intermittent current interruptions, EMC/EMI, noise, open ground, high voltage, and phase variations. Which one is 'unsteady' power? Fifth, best evidence is the dead body. What part inside that computer failed. Without that knowledge, then nobody can say why that computer failed. Only better techs can say what part failed. Techs who fix things by shotgunning often do not even know how electricity works. Would not know what those many anomalies are. Would use wild speculation to blame some fiction such as 'unsteady' power. Six, a battery backup is not a surge protector. But it is to so many who are easily manipulated by advertising, hearsay, wild speculation, and subjective reasoning (no numbers). You have a UPS. That provides temporary and 'dirty' power so that unsaved data can be saved. It does not and does not claim to protect saved data or hardware. More numbers. An output from my 120 volt sine wave UPS: 200 volt square waves with a spike up to 270 volts. Why is power that dirty? Because all electronics are so robust as to safely consume power even dirtier. And yes, it is a sine wave output. We all learned this in high school math. Square waves and spikes are nothing more than a sum of pure sine waves. So they did not lie. They simply made a subjective claim - no numbers. So that naive consumers 'wish' it does something special. If power is unsteady, then incandescent bulbs are changing intensity. If hardware is failing, then a manufacturing defect best explains it. Since we don't have numbers or a list of each failed internal part. 'Dirtiest' power often comes from a UPS. It claims to provide temporary and 'dirty' power. Provide specification numbers that claim to protect hardware. Otherwise that fable only comes from color glossy sales brochures. Legal is to lie using subjective claims. Only place they will not lie is in numeric specifications. And so it is said, "Show me the numbers." BTW I meant to discuss this. No protector does protection. A 'whole house' protector is only as effetive as its earth ground. (Plug-in protectors have no earth ground.) If you suffered surge damage, then your earth ground may be defective. Only you are responsible for providing and maintaining it. A ground that meets code may go from a breaker box, up over the foundation, and down to earth ground electrodes. Perfectly good for code (that defines human protection). And defective (for appliance protection). That ground wire has excessive impedance if too long (ie more than 10 feet). Sharp bends over the foundation increase impedance. It is not separated from other non-grounding wires. If you had damage, then an investigation starts with what does protection. That is not a 'whole house' protector. That is what connects that protector low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to single point earth ground. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground....See Morecj47
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